These food and restaurant pages are part of Paradoxplace (about Paradoxplace).  In addition to its restaurant and food pages, Paradoxplace contains over 7,000 photographs covering much of Italy. Spain and Portugal, France, and Britain, and other places as diverse as Constantinople, and Mughal India.  Paradoxplace also contains extensive illustrated chronologies, maps etc featuring  the interesting movers and shakers and places in the worlds of history, art and thinking - from the end of the Western Roman Empire (about 500AD), through the boomtimes of the high middle ages (1200s) and the  Italian Renaissance (1400s) to the entry of the Nation States of Early Modern Europe (around 1600AD).  Wherever possible, looking, eating and story telling are combined - apart from the special food pages linked above, many of the other pages have food photos and restaurant and hotel notes.

 

We are not commercially sponsored (but have nothing against this in principle!), and we make no charge for any of the listings and recommendations - the only criteria are those of interest and that we or our friends have enjoyed them.   Feedback is encouraged, as there is only so much one person can eat and photograph in a lifetime - email afletch at paradoxplace dot com.

 

These guides were researched in the early 2000s .... not much has changed for many of the restaurants except many now have websites, which makes it easy to check information about them.  We can't vouch for up to date accuracy, so you should check first.

 

 

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Other Paradoxplace Restaurant Notes: Chianti & Siena  Florence  Umbria  Rome  Venice

 

Puglia Restaurants and Hotels

 

The Gargano

Troia

Trani

Bitonto

Lecce

Otranto

Galatina

Gallipoli

 

The Gargano
 

 

 

Meet the effervescent Ylemie, one of the family running La Taverna dei Briganti, near San Marco in Lamis.  No nonsense taverna far enough off the Padre Pio strip to be patronised solely by locals (and me).  Seafood di golfo today, as a reward for travelling on past so many dubious lunch possibilities on the long and very unattractive Pio strip through S Giovanni Rotondo, and then ending up in the empty countryside (till we found this!).

 

Link to

A Day in the Gargano - Blue Skies, Freezing Wind and the Archangel Michael in Atmospheric Monte Sant'Angelo

 

 

 

 

Next door to the grotto entrance in Monte Sant'Angelo is the new 50 room

 

Albergo Casa del Pellegrino

+39 0884 562396

santuariosanmichele@interfree.it

 

In a region where passable hotels are rare (unless you are on the gungy Padre Pio strip around S Giovanni Rotondo), this could well be worth consideration as an overnighter.

 

Our base in Northern Puglia was in a newish condo estate on the edge of the old town of Lucera (west of Foggia) .... The Hotel Sorriso in via Rafaello (bit like English council estates - vias Rafaello, Donatello, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, etc as though naming can override blandness).  In 2006 The Sorriso was proudly lit up with a huge neon "Ristorante" sign even though there was no evidence that this was ever open (in November anyway) - but there is a local Pizza place round the corner with warm rosť wine on tap.  Lucera is a good geographic location for N Puglia (and especially Troia, which has not one hotel), and the Sorriso is the less hassly of the two hotels to find, park at etc - the other one is the Villa Imperiale which is more crowded (but the restaurant is open) as it's by the bus terminal outside the main southern gate to the town.  Whatever you do, avoid Foggia - recently measured as the most congested town in Italy, and Manfredonia, which is a dump. 

 

Troia

 

The Osteria "Fra due Terre" was the only eating house in Troia that the Dom, who has a keen nose for these things, thought looked interesting (actually, it was just about the only ....).  Here's Giuseppe (joint proprietor) and Andreia (who is Portuguese and also speaks excellent English).  As can be seen, it was Haloween time. 

 

Giuseppe's dad also produces wine and does agriturismo (complete with a piccolo zoo of animale da cortile near Troia).  The restaurant has a few rooms and it is typical of Italians that they have picked the least attractive to put on their web site.  They more than make up for this by putting some of their recipes on the site as well.

 

Link to Lunch at the Osteria Fra due Terre

 

 

Trani

LINK TO TRANI RESTAURANTS AND THE HOTEL REGIA

 

 

 

Regia Ristorante

 

 

 

Osteria Corteinfiore

 

Bitonto

Cafe Plancheto, Bitonto

 

Just to the right of this photo of the east Apse End of Bitonto Cattedrale is the Cafe Plancheto.  Bruschetta, a crispy lasagne, caraffe of red, dolci and a glass of moscato appeared without the help of a menu or indeed much money .... what a place off the beaten track Italy is ......

 

Lecce
   
Otranto
 

 

Link to a degustazione fish lunch at Ristorante Vico Lopez di Massimo Panareo in Otranto

Galatina
   
Gallipoli
   

 

For other Paradoxplace links visit the home page

 

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