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Restaurants and a Hotel in Trani, Puglia

 

Hotel & Ristorante Regia       Osteria Corteinfiore

 

More Puglia Restaurants and Hotels

 

 

 

TRANI

 

Crusader assembly port - major medieval Jewish town

 

Trani Cathedral (2003)

Trani Cathedral (2006)

Bronze Doors of Trani Cattedrale (c1180)

Templar Church of Ognissanti

Medieval Porto - Winter Dawn (2003)

Medieval Porto (2006)

Trani Restaurants & a Hotel (this page)

Frederick II's Castello at Trani

 

 

HOTEL REGIA, TRANI (BOOKINGS LINK)

 

The Hotel Regia - Small Palazzo Jewel in front of the Cattedrale (hotel left - view from room right).  Perfect for everything except breakfast (but it shares that with most other Italian hotels).  To get there in a fun, picturesque and pain free way (as opposed to fighting your way through Trani's surprisingly extensive and very ordinary suburbs), get onto the ordinary coast road south of Trani, then follow the signs to the hotel going north along the shoreline and through the picturesque Porto. 

 

 

Regia Ristorante, Trani

 

 

Long family Ognissanti (November 1) lunch at the restaurant of the Regia Hotel - great platters of steaming pasta dishes to tables of up to 20 family members of all age groups.   And on the right the head waiter Gabriele, who just said "leave it to me, OK?" and the Dom did and the result was very good, both on this occasion and for a later in the week dinner for the local Carabiniere command, when the Dom was sneaked in to a side table.  Below are a some of the results - the fish choice including spigola (whole sea bass) and spada (sword fish) steaks.

 

Regia Ristorante - tel: 0883 58 4444 (Cl Monday and in winter open only for holidays and weekends)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Osteria Corteinfiore, Trani

 

 

 

 

Very very fresh and subtle crudo (raw) seafood at the Dom's new top Trani restaurant - the Osteria Corteinfiore, down the street to the north of the Templar Church of Ognissanti, and overflowing with Italians on Friday and Saturday nights and some other times even in November (so book).  The Italians do not obscure the subtle taste of raw seafood with strong additives like green Wasabi Mustard and Soy Sauce, or, God forbid, Worcester or Tomato Sauce. 

 

There was also a warm seafood starter (pictured below) which included breadcrumbed fish cakes made using baccalà (dried salted cod which is restored to health by extensive washing in water and eventually milk) - mouth watering.

 

Osteria Corteinfiore - tel: 0883 508402

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Exit Ristorante La Locanda & Ristorante La Vite, Trani

 

 

Our 2003 visit to Trani resulted in two other restaurant mentions, both are in the pedestrian only street of Zanardelli leading off the centre of the old port quay, and we tried unsuccessfully to patronize both again in November 2006.

 

Ristorante La Locanda (C Wed - no English) - Effervescent and helpful (in 2003) owner Luigi and his waiter Michele provided a seafood and explanatory extravaganza - spaghetti, fresh tomatoes and shellfish / crustaceans, followed by grilled fish, octopus (outstanding), stuffed squid, and Canocchie or Cicale Mare (squill - scampi like creatures but a bit smaller, found in live abundance on the market stalls - much more shell than meat!) and Grappa di Moscato.  All done in an atmospheric stone barrel vaulted room (with vault unusually running parallel to the street).  Sadly the Dom's return in 2006 was such a disappointment that he walked out after waiting for ten minutes plus for the disinterested young waitress to tell him what there was to eat.  There was only one other group of diners in the place and Luigi, intent on fiddling with a light in a new structure he has built over half the main street, was not interested either - even when we left !!  Arrivederci Luigi !

 

Ristorante La Vite (C Tue) - Met (in 2003) Rosemary, the attractive and lively owner / chef - who is also passionate about teas (she has over 100 sorts on her shelves).  Of particular gastronomic note were the pan fried prawns / baby octopuses - lightly dusted with flour and something tasty before cooking, and served on a bed of lemon slices (excellent idea), and later a glass or two of clear moscato digestivo (the local award winning red was good too and only €11 a bottle in 2003).  All in another barrel vaulted stone space with iconic photographic posters and pleasant bluesy background music.  We booked to go back here on a Friday night in 2006 (they are closed on Thursdays) but the place was in darkness and locked.   Dov'è Rosemary ?

 

The first week in November 2006 was definitely an off week in via Zanardelli.

 

 

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