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L'Anzolo Rafael (and Miss Garnet's Angel)

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In 2004 the church of l'Anzolo Rafael was closed for restoration, and the Campo was also a bit of a boarded up dilapidated  place.  The Archangel Rafael* still guards the church along with Tobias and his dog. 

 

Readers of Salley Vickers' absorbing tale "Miss Garnet's Angel", can have fun working out which one of the main locations in the area which are featured in the book is fictional.  The Venetians have their own distinctive way of doing Italian, and it is interesting that an English author would try and improve on it by translating the Venetian "Campo de l'Anzolo Rafael" into the Tuscan "Campo dell'Angelo Raffaele" !

 

There is a sad story attaching to one of the two wells in the Campo (right).  It was built with funds provided in the will of merchant Marco Arian, who died in the Black Death outbreak of 1348 that reduced Europe's population by more than 50%, and who thought that the plague was the result of contaminated water.

 

* The Archangel Rafael (Venetian Italian spelling) is mentioned in the Deuterocanonical Book of Tobit, where he unblinds Tobit and undemonizes his son Tobias.  Later he stars in the Book of Enoch.  Raphael is the last of only three Archangels in the Western Christian Tradition.  The first (and the only one mentioned in the New Testament by name) is the Archangel Michael, and the second (star of annunciation and other paintings) is the Archangel Gabriel.

 

Lunch

Not too far away are two interesting lunch options. 

 

On the Fondamenta Briati / Calle dei Guardiani is this typical "bacaro" (right) - a sort of Venetian tapas (known here as cicheto) bar.  Wood panelled room, tables and benches - crowded but charismatic and fun.

 

A bit further along on the other side of the Rio dei Carmini and at the back of the scuola of the same name is the Osteria ai Carmini.  Uncharismatic interior but with good food being enjoyed by Venetians!  The card says chicchetteria but the food we saw was trattoria style.  They have an outside area also.

 

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