These food and restaurant pages are part of Paradoxplace (about Paradoxplace).  In addition to its restaurant and food pages, Paradoxplace contains over 7,000 photographs covering much of Italy. Spain and Portugal, France, and Britain, and other places as diverse as Constantinople, and Mughal India.  Paradoxplace also contains extensive illustrated chronologies, maps etc featuring  the interesting movers and shakers and places in the worlds of history, art and thinking - from the end of the Western Roman Empire (about 500AD), through the boomtimes of the high middle ages (1200s) and the  Italian Renaissance (1400s) to the entry of the Nation States of Early Modern Europe (around 1600AD).  Wherever possible, looking, eating and story telling are combined - apart from the special food pages linked above, many of the other pages have food photos and restaurant and hotel notes.

 

We are not commercially sponsored (but have nothing against this in principle!), and we make no charge for any of the listings and recommendations - the only criteria are those of interest and that we or our friends have enjoyed them.   Feedback is encouraged, as there is only so much one person can eat and photograph in a lifetime - email afletch at paradoxplace dot com.

 

These guides were researched in the early 2000s .... not much has changed for many of the restaurants except many now have websites, which makes it easy to check information about them.  We can't vouch for up to date accuracy, so you should check first.

 

 

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Some Venice Restaurants + a Hotel

The Paradoxplace Venice Pages include information on some of the lunch and dinner spots we found and liked.   For convenience these are summarized on this page. 

 

Paradoxplace Italian Restaurant Notes: Chianti & Siena  Florence  Umbria  Rome  Puglia

 

Santa Croce Cannaregio San Marco
Dorsoduro San Polo Castello

 

Hotel Do Pozzi (San Marco)

Ristorante da Raffaele

 

The Hotel Do Pozzi (***) proved an excellent and friendly base for a thorough exploration of Venice, starting each day with an early breakfast in their private courtyard.  The hotel is a five minute walk from the S Maria del Giglio Vaporetto Linea 1 stop.

 

The hotel also operates, and gives a resident discount at, the excellent next door canalside restaurant Da Raffaele - make sure to book if you want to sit canalside.

 

If you have a car to park, the hotel will give you a 10% discount voucher for the main city car park in the corner of Piazzale Roma.

 

San Polo:  The Trattoria S Toma, Campo S Toma

LINK to I Frari page

 

A gastronomic and ambience recommendation - the best pranzo on our 2004 Venetian visit.  After the meal in the Campo we discovered that there was also a large leafy garden section at the back - and it was full of Italians - always the best recommendation!  That's the destination next time!  The Campo S Toma is close by I Frari - that's the I Frari campanile in the background.  On the other side of the Campo is the old Scuola dei Calegheri (shoemakers) - now a library -  with a tympanum relief showing S Mark healing the cobbler Ananias (and some shoes).

 

Castello:  The dal Vecio Squeri

LINK to Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni page

 

The dal Vecio Squeri restaurant is in an otherwise deserted and undistinguished little campo (no sign of the old squeri any more, in fact no sign of anything apart from the restaurant), but it serves excellent Venetian food and wine.  Here is a "Pasta con il Nero di Seppia" - pasta with cuttlefish cooked in cuttlefish ink.  Contrary to what the card says it is open on Sundays - and on the Sunday in May when we were there it was packed with Italians.

 

Castello:  The Ristorante Alla Conchiglia ("In the Shell") - good food and one of the surprisingly rare eating houses with tables on a fondamenta (phone 0415289095).

LINK to Pentecoste Sunday in Castello

 

 

San Marco:  Ristorante La Feluca

 

 

La Feluca is an excellent mid-market restaurant away from the main tourist drag in Calle della Mandola, which runs off Campo San Angelo.

 

San Marco:  "Cucina da Mario"

 

 

 

Keep a lookout to the right whilst walking from S M Giglio towards Campo Morosini, and you will spot this very local unpretentious trattoria on the west bank of one of the canals.  The sort of place where it's best to get whatever is being recommended (in charismatic Venetian), a mountain of bread and a mezzo litro of vino rosso di casa and enjoy.

 

 

San Marco:  Vino Vino (web site)

 

 

An unfashionable old San Marco bacaro in Calle Veste between the rebuilt La Fenice theatre and the "Rolex watch" touts of Viale 22 Marzo (and several pricey restaurants).  Get to know good Venetian wines by the glass over a meal in fun surroundings, and the food ain't too bad either.  Plus it's really good value, especially in this area!

 

 

San Marco: Ristorante Da Raffaele

 

The Hotel Do Pozzi (***) also operates, and gives a resident discount at, the excellent next door canalside restaurant Da Raffaele (but make sure to book if you want to sit canalside)

Dorsoduro:  Osteria ai Carmini

LINK to l'Anzolo Rafael (Miss Garnet's Angel)

 

 

Not too far away from Campo de l'Anzolo Rafael are two interesting lunch options. 

 

On the Fondamenta Briati / Calle dei Guardiani is this typical "bacaro" (right) - a sort of Venetian tapas (known here as cicheto) bar.  Wood panelled room, tables and benches - crowded but charismatic and fun.

 

A bit further along on the other side of the Rio dei Carmini and at the back of the scuola of the same name is the Osteria ai Carmini.  Uncharismatic interior (in common with most restaurants in Italy) but with good food being enjoyed by working Venetians!  The card says chicchetteria but the food we saw was trattoria style.  They have an outside area also in the Campo Santa Margherita.

 

Santa Croce:  Il Refolo

Next door to the church of S Giacomo dall'Orio - includes large outdoor area (on the right of the photo) and lots of pizza eating Italian families on a Sunday!

Cannaregio:  Trattoria Storica

Good Trattoria near the over the top Jesuit church on the north side of town.

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