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Basilique St-Julien, Brioude

 

Link to Maps of the Pilgrimage Roads of France

 

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Brioude's Basilique St-Julien is the largest Romanesque church in the Auvergne.  It was built in the 10 - 1100s to house the tomb of Roman soldier martyr St-Julien and the large number of pilgrims this attracted, with the nave roof vaulting added a century or so later.  It's a wonderful space from every perspective - perhaps made more so by its bleak featureless external town surroundings.

 

 

Basilique St-Julien nave, looking east

 

 

La Chapelle St-Michel

 

 

 

Keystone to the arch under La Chapelle St-Michel

 

 

Detail from a Last Judgement fresco in the Chapelle St-Michel, from "The Roads to Santiago" published by MSM

Link to French Medieval Pilgrims' Roads

 

 

Our original reason for going to the Basilique St-Julien was to see the frescoed Chapelle St-Michel, having had our appetite whetted by the detail pictured above. 

 

Alas the chapel is on the southern part of a large and high Spanish style gallery at the west end of the church, and the door to the stairs was locked with a notice that the chapel was "actuellment fermee aux visites" - though more optimistically it went on to say that actuellment  la cle could be obtained from the office of tourism. 

 

Sadly, being a Sunday afternoon (the time one would most expect visitors), the office of tourism - along with what little else was around the church -  was very definitely not open for business.   Here are some glimpses of what might have been, seen from the south aisle looking up westwards into the chapel ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some Capitals

 

 

 

 

Awestruck soldiers - "Look what we've found"

 

 

 

 

Four Sirens, Two Capitals

 

Link to more Mermaids

 

 

 

 

And, of course, there are the painted columns ......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

St-Julien tomb relic

 

 

And outside, a merman ......

 

 

 

 

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